A Dominus Vertical
In my opinion, Dominus makes some of the best wine in California. I prefer it to any of the "name-brands" like Opus One, Mondavi Reserve, or Cakebread, and also prefer it to the "cult classics" like Dalle Valle, Screaming Eagle, or Shafer's Hillside Select.
I find that it has more depth and concentration than the "name-brands" like Opus One, and more elegance, finesse, and style than the "cult classics". It is one of the most Bordeaux-like Californian Cabernets that i have ever tasted. I think it's safe to say that Dominus is my favorite Californian Cabernet.
So needless to say, I jumped at the opportunity to taste through a range of their wines from the past two decades.
The tasting was arranged by a friend and former client, and it was one of those fun occasions when everyone brings a bottle or two. Between six of us, we managed to rustle up ten vintages of Dominus and some port to finish things off with. Here are my thoughts on the wines.
1985 Dominus
For only the third vintage that Dominus produced, this wine has held up beautifully. Still quite deeply colored, the wine possesses a gorgeous aroma of cassis, leather, vanilla, and earth. Richly concentrated flavors of black fruit and a touch of spice make this wine a treat to drink, even at the ripe old age of 19. Delicious, but not quite as good as the 1986. 92 points.
1986 Dominus
Although not considered a classic by the popular press, we were blown away by the quality of this wine. Deep and intensely colored, and showing few signs of age, the 1986 Dominus has a penetrating aroma of black fruits, minerals, and spice. Richly concentrated, this velvety textured wine reveals elegant flavors of plum, cassis, and chocolate. A simply magnificent wine. 96 points.
1990 Dominus
This blockbuster is really maturing well, and it possesses a more elegant and refined character than it did even just a few years ago. Deep purple in color with a heavenly aroma of cassis, black fruits, minerals, and vanillin, the wine is stunning in the mouth. Extremely rich and concentrated with an unctuous texture, it nevertheless manages to retain an elegance and sophistication that is lacking in many other Californian Cabernets. This wine will offer superb drinking for many years to come. 98 points.
1991 Dominus
Wow! This wine is one of the greatest Californian Cabernets I've ever had the pleasure of tasting. Inky black in color, the wine resembles a young vintage port in appearance. Unbelievably rich, this concentrated wine offers up jammy flavors of cherry and blackcurrant along with hints of mineral, leather, and spice. A firm backbone of tannin and acidity balance this wine out perfectly. This is Cabernet par excellence! 100 points.
1992 Dominus
Either this wine was slightly off tonight or I was. Simply magnificent, but not quite as good as it has been on many prior occasions. The bottle appeared to be in excellent condition and there was no trace of cork taint, but the wine was overshadowed by most of the others, which was a big surprise. Nonetheless, the wine did reveal a pentrating aroma of red currant, mocha, and tar along with flavors of plum, blackberry, and blueberry. A little bit short and tart on the finish, but still excellent. Tonight 91 points. Other bottles I have tasted have been more concentrated and have had better-integrated acidity and tannin, and deserve at least 97 points.
1994 Dominus
At age ten, this wine is still a baby. This is Dominus and Californian Cabernet at its finest. Saturated purple, almost black in color, with a penetrating aroma of black fruit, mocha, mint, and cedar, this mouth-filling wine is a worthy successor to the 1991. 99+ points.
1995 Dominus
I have always felt this to be an extremely underrated vintage of Dominus. As I recall, Wine Spectator gave it a whopping 87 points along with a distinctly underwhelming tasting note. Although not as big or rich as the 1991 or 1994, I have always found the 1995 to possess an elegant and stylish personality. Very Bordeaux-like, with aromas of mineral and leather, the 1995 Dominus reveals flavors of red currant, plums, and raspberry along with hints of vanilla and mint. It will continue to drink well for another 7-10 years. 93 points.
1996 Dominus
This wine gets better every time I taste it. It has added considerable depth and charm since I last tasted it in November 2002, and it had plenty of both to begin with. Rich and full, the 1996 Dominus has a knockout nose of mineral, plum, and wild berries, which is followed by jammy flavors of black cherry, blueberry, blackcurrants, and a touch of vanilla and spice. It should continue to improve over the next couple of years and last for a further 10-15. 95+ points.
1997 Dominus
As big a fan of this winery as I am, I have to confess that this wine is not as good as I expected considering the quality of the vintage in California. Nonetheless, this is an outstanding wine. Ripe flavors of cherries and plums dominate this wine.......
1998 Dominus
1998 note here...
1970 Taylor Fladgate
1970 Taylor not here...
Highlights
A quick look at some of the best wines from the Dominus tasting.
1986 Dominus
Although not considered a classic by the popular press, we were blown away by the quality of this wine. Deep and intensely colored, and showing few signs of age, the 1986 Dominus has a penetrating aroma of black fruits, minerals, and spice. Richly concentrated, this velvety textured wine reveals elegant flavors of plum, cassis, and chocolate. A simply magnificent wine. 96 points.
1990 Dominus
This blockbuster is really maturing well, and it possesses a more elegant and refined character than it did even just a few years ago. Deep purple in color with a heavenly aroma of cassis, black fruits, minerals, and vanillin, the wine is stunning in the mouth. Extremely rich and concentrated with an unctuous texture, it nevertheless manages to retain an elegance and sophistication that is lacking in many other Californian Cabernets. This wine will offer superb drinking for many years to come. 98 points.
1991 Dominus
Wow! This wine is one of the greatest Californian Cabernets I've ever had the pleasure of tasting. Inky black in color, the wine resembles a young vintage port in appearance. Unbelievably rich, this concentrated wine offers up jammy flavors of cherry and blackcurrant along with hints of mineral, leather, and spice. A firm backbone of tannin and acidity balance this wine out perfectly. This is Cabernet par excellence! 100 points.
1994 Dominus
At age ten, this wine is still a baby. This is Dominus and Californian Cabernet at its finest. Saturated purple, almost black in color, with a penetrating aroma of black fruit, mocha, mint, and cedar, this mouth-filling wine is a worthy successor to the 1991. 99+ points.